Looking for the best skincare active ingredients to fight your everyday skin concerns? Start with AHAs and BHAs.
Do you ever wonder exactly what the active ingredients in your favorite skincare products are doing? Skeptical if you should buy a new product and what those ingredients in it mean? Depending on your skin concerns, you want to make sure you understand which ingredients will give you the results you are looking for. There are active ingredients geared towards clearing acne, exfoliating, rehydrating, firming, brightening and so forth. You also want to make sure you’re not spending a pretty penny on a skincare product that promises the world but doesn’t contain any of these ingredients. Educating yourself on what these ingredients are and what they achieve can bring you one step closer to beautiful, clear skin!
Exfoliating with Alpha Hydrogy Acids (AHAs)
Glycolic Acid:
Glycolic Acid is the skincare active ingredient that’s really done the most for my skin. Since I started using glycolic acid my skin has been noticeably clearer and smoother, removing any of the stubborn little bumps especially on my forehead. The texture overall has improved. I use it in a cleanser (linked below) but the ingredient can also be used in face wipes, serums, toners, and moisturizers.
The main benefit of Glycolic acid is the ability to gently exfoliate to remove the dead skin cells while stimulating collagen and elastin production. Since it has the smallest molecular size of the AHAs it is able to better penetrate the skin.
Lactic Acid:
If you want something a little more gentler than glycolic acid you should try lactic acid. Lactic acid is more for sensitive skin (though I’ve never had a problem with a low percentage of glycolic acid in my daily cleanser) and it still gently exfoliates to leave smooth, healthy skin.
“When it comes to deciding which lactic acid is best for you, you should be looking at both the percentage of the acid in the product, and also the pH level of the formula. According to Hobson, lactic acids “work best at a lower pH. For home care use products should be about 10% or less with an optimal pH of around 3.5-4.0.””
https://www.harpersbazaar.com.au/beauty/lactic-acid-skincare-16922
Lactic acid also promotes the production of collagen, improves the skin texture, and reduces the appearance of wrinkles and hyperpigmentation.
Citric Acid:
https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredient/701385/CITRIC_ACID/#
“Citric acid is an alpha hydroxy acid used in personal care products to adjust the acidity or promote skin peeling and re-growth in the case of anti-aging products.”
Citric acid is probably the harshest out of the AHAs. Citric acid is not great for more sensitive skin because it can cause more burning, tingling and redness compared to the other AHAs. However, in small quantities it is good for exfoliating and helping with discoloration of the skin.
Skincare Products with AHAs:
Several products out there actually have a combination of the AHAs such as the Farmacy Honeymoon Glow which boasts a combination of Glycolic, Lactic, Citric, and Fruit acids, and not to mention also other ingredients we’ll talk about below: BHA (Beta Hydrogy Acids) and Hyaluronic Acid.
Clearing with Beta Hydrogy Acids (BHAs)
Salicylic Acid:
Salicylic Acid is great at fighting those annoying pimples. Unlike AHAs that focus more on exfoliating the surface of the skin, BHAs can penetrate into the pores for a deeper clean.
https://www.allure.com/story/what-does-salicylic-acid-do
“Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid, which means the hydroxy part of the molecule is separated from the acid part by two carbon atoms, as opposed to an alpha hydroxy acid where they’re separated by one carbon atom,” says Randy Schueller, a cosmetic chemist in Chicago. Are you still with us? Good, because this is where it gets fun. “This structure is important because it makes salicylic acid more oil soluble so it can penetrate into the pores of the skin,” says Schueller.
Not only can it unclog pores but it reduces sebum production aka makes your skin less oily and also calms current breakouts because of its anti-inflammatory properties.
You may also find “Willow bark” as a listed ingredient for BHAs as it is a natural source of salicin. However, unless ingested (do not ingest), willow bark does not actually convert to salicylic acid.
“The salicins in willow bark cannot be converted to salicylic acid on the skin, because the skin lacks the enzymes needed to do so. Therefore, willow bark extract does not have the same acne-busting, pore-exfoliating powers salicylic acid does. At best, the salicins in willow bark reduce inflammation and its associated redness and possibly have an antimicrobial effect.”
https://teavaskincare.com/salicylic-acid-vs-willow-bark-extract-true-acne-fighter/
Therefore, if you want the full acne fighting effects of Salicylic acid, its best to stick to it in its pure form. However, if you just want something that helps just with reducing redness and inflammation, willow bark is a good option.
Also be cautious of products with Wintergreen as their “natural source of Salicylic Acid” because there are studies that suggest that Wintergreen oil is toxic in large quantities. It is extremely toxic when ingested but also I’m hesitant to apply this to my face because your skin absorbs whatever you put on it. If you do use wintergreen oil you need to make sure its diluted with other carrier oils which most skincare products do like the Caudalie Vinopure Pore Minimizing Serum which also contains rosewater and other essential oils. However, I’d rather be safe than sorry! And again there are other products with Salicylic acid that will work better and safer for your skin even though they may not be completely derived from “natural” ingredients.
Skincare Products with BHAs:
A Cocktail of AHAs and BHAs
AHAs and BHAs can be used together to get the benefits of both. For less sensitive skin you can try a product that combines both types into one such as the cleanser that I use, the Neutrogena Pore Refining Exfoliating Cleanser, or the Farmacy Honeymoon Glow with AHAs and Salicylic acid. Or you can choose to use one in the morning and one at night or even alternating days when using each.
Another good recommendation from Paula’s Choice:
https://www.paulaschoice.com/expert-advice/skincare-advice/paulas-choice-product-tips/difference-between-aha-and-bha-exfoliants.html
“If you have combination skin, where the T-zone is oily and clog-prone with large pores, but the cheeks are dry, experiment by applying a BHA exfoliant to the oily areas and an AHA exfoliant to the dry areas.”
“Pro Tip:
If you’re primarily looking for dry skin relief or anti-aging benefits, try an AHA. If you want to tackle acne, look to BHAs.”
https://www.healthline.com/health/aha-vs-bha#aha-use-and-otc-products
Combined AHA and BHA Skincare Products:
I don’t know about you but I love learning about the science behind skincare! It really helps clears up any confusion on what will help improve my skin. When you’re armed with this knowledge you can choose better products for your skincare goals and even know what products or skincare ingredients to avoid. If I’m going to be spending good money on products, I expect results and having a knowledge of the best skincare ingredients certainly helps!
I am not an expert, esthetician or dermatologist, just passionate about doing my own research on skincare. Please consult your dermatologist before adding any new products or ingredients to your skincare routine!
Let me know if you’ve tried any of these products mentioned above and your experiences with them!